(Sir Oliver: About two years ago I was joking with a friend how it would be nice if one of us put out an article in the Grapevine on how to make proper scrambled eggs. This joke must have been prompted by the unpleasant morning scrambled egg syndrome experiences in some homes. Now most homes have fine morning eggs, but perhaps some of us are all too familiar with the “green rubber chunks”Kevin Kanwayte lamented in a recent Training Winning Teams letter. This is a recipe from Delia Smith’s How to Cook Book One)



1. For scrambled eggs for one, use 2 large eggs and ½ oz (10 g) butter, plus salt and pepper. For more people, just multiply the ingredients accordingly. The method remains the same but more eggs will obviously take longer to cook. For scrambled eggs, the fresher the eggs the better, but up to two weeks old is fine. First of all, break the eggs into a small bowl and use a fork to lightly blend the yolks into the whites, whisking gently. Add a good seasoning of salt and freshly milled black pepper. Now take a small, heavy-based saucepan and place it over a medium heat – this is really the only rule; if the heat is too high, the eggs will become dry and flaky. Add half the butter to the pan and swirl it around so that the base and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the sides of the pan are moistened with it.




2. Then, when the butter has melted and is just beginning to foam, pour in the beaten eggs. Using a wooden fork or a wooden spoon with a point, start stirring briskly using a backwards and forwards movement all through the liquid egg, getting into the corners of the pan to prevent it from sticking. Don’t, whatever you do, turn the heat up: just be patient and keep on scrambling away until you calculate that three-quarters of the egg is now a creamy, solid mass and a quarter is still liquid.




3. At this point, remove the pan from the heat, add the rest of the butter and continue scrambling with the fork or spoon. The eggs will carry on cooking in the heat from the pan. As soon as there is no liquid egg left, serve the scrambled eggs absolutely immediately. The secret of success is removing the pan at the right stage, because overcooking makes the eggs dry and flaky. Once you’ve mastered the art of allowing them to finish cooking off the heat, you will never have a problem. If you like, you can add a little double cream or crème fraîche as well as the butter. Either way, soft clouds of perfectly scrambled eggs are one of life’s special joys. Serve on buttered toast or bagels.